Choosing a Fly Reel

An article by Derek McKenzie Outdoors

As we get started here, it seems only fitting to give credit where credit is due.  So we should thank a fellow by the name of Charles F. Orvis, who on May 12, 1874 was granted a patent on his new trout reel. Virtually all fly reels since are based upon one or more of the principles that set this reel apart from all others.  Mr. Orvis changed the face of fly-fishing forever and we offer him a well-deserved tip of the hat!

Let’s start this article by heading straight into the deep water with a look at the very old school thought that the reel was nothing more than a storage place for the line and your free hand was the drag and that was that.  In some cases today this is not wrong, especially if you are only going after small fish.  But if you accept this as a fact then with that you should accept the fact that in days gone by the likelihood of a broken tippet ran high and even more so if you found that trophy sized fish lurking about.  Back in the old days, landing a fish was really a cause for celebration and we would have spent a lot of time fixing tippets and getting rid of our frustrations.

We are glad that a lot has changed since Mr. Orvis brought forth his revolutionary reel and with changing times come changing ways of thinking.  So with that let’s take a look at the humble fly reel and a few of the basics before we decide what we want and what we want it to do for us.    

What's this thing for anyway?

The first function of a fly reel is pretty simple and pretty much old school and that of course is to hold the line and backing.  The reel needs to facilitate the size of the line you want to use to match your choice of rod weight and also hold a fair amount of backing (depending upon the type and size of fish that you are after) keeping it convenient and ready to strip and cast.  And fortunately a good part of this function has improved as well with the advent of many of the more modern reels.

That being said, we will just briefly touch on the fact that the reels come in sizes (weights) very similar to our fly rod discussions.  Simply put, the smaller the number or weight, the smaller the reel and the smaller the capacity for line and backing.  And while you can move around a bit with this, that is you can use a 4 weight reel on a 5 weight rod or a combination weight like a 4/5 reel, don’t plan on having one single reel to match your 2 weight bamboo rod and your 7 weight graphite rod.  We will talk more about this in the section on balance in this article.

The next thing we want the reel to do is…reel!  Clever concept and hopefully one that is easily achievable both with and without a fish on the end of the line.

So we will stop right here with these two very basics of the fly reel and get rid of a myth that seems to be getting worse over time rather than better….

While all reels will do all of the above, and most any quality reel will do them well, cheap reels will only do them for a short while and not very well at that.  The usual “cheap deal reel” will have lots of imperfections ranging from wobble to poor stripping characteristics to problems with the housing.  But if you want to replace your reel every year, this may be a good choice because you will no doubt be doing that as well.  While you may not need the top of the line with all the bells and whistles, do not assume that good quality is not needed.  It is!

And now that we know the reel holds the line and reels it back in AND you should avoid cheap reels like the plague, let’s move on to a few topics to help you make your selection.

What a drag

No, this is a topic we really do like to talk about but this should tell you where we are going next in our discussion!

In the not so good old days, the drag was either the palm of the hand or the fingertips and this was all well and good until we actually hooked up with a fish that was happy to take the last few loops from your free hand while you are fumbling about to find the rim and hopefully keeping pressure on the line and not loosing control or getting the line tangles and…well we think the picture is pretty clear.

For smaller fish, particularly rainbows in a tiny stream, we still love tradition and this type of adventure and recommend it whole heartedly to anyone.  However beyond that it is well worth taking a look at where we are today and what the benefits are to you, the fly fisherman.

There are really only two types of drag systems worth mentioning and this should cover the gamut with regard to quality reels.

Let’s start with the classic spring and pawl reels and for up to about your mid-size or healthy average trout, are all that is really necessary. The drag is designed to keep the line from over-spooling when a fish makes a sudden run and not really to put a lot of pressure on the fish.  This works by a relatively uncomplicated gear meshing system under the pressure of a spring hence the name.  You should never hear a manufacturer refer to this type of drag as one to stop a fish on the run.  It won’t and really should not even slow it down much.  If you need to add extra drag to slow the fish down or turn him with this type of reel, you touch your finger to the exposed rim of the spool.  And since trout are sprinters and not long distance runners, spring and pawl reels are usually more than adequate and in fact, one of our first choices.

If we are talking about a reel that suits a bamboo rod, this is the correct reel / drag configuration and look for one in a classic design.  The end.  All right so once in a while we get to express an opinion too!

Next is the disc drag reel and these have made their way to the top of the heap in recent times and certainly with good reason.  This type of drag relies on the pressure between two plates of material inside the reel and the more pressure the greater the drag force applied to the line.  A fairly simple principal in thought, but not so simple in practise when it becomes part of your reel.  One of the big issues here is the material from which these plates are made, and we prefer cork and delrin (or other similar teflon-type material).  You should have the ability to make very gradual adjustments to the amount of pressure exerted on the line and of course the use of the control device, whether knob or lever, should be comfortable and easy to reach.  This control device should also have certain types of pressure retention built into it as well.  Also too, the materials in the plates should be large enough and built to stand up to use, the weather and heat from the friction as the drag is applied.  All of these and of course the ability to both adhere and move freely against each other under pressure.  The best way to understand how the reel you are considering will meet or exceed what you are hoping for is to do a bit of research and of course, ask questions!  

Do you think that reels of this calibre are going to be cheap?  If you picked no you are correct.   Now here are just a couple of basics before we move on from the drag systems…

Regardless of the type of drag system, make sure it functions smoothly with no skipping or unusual sticky points from the moment it engages to the moment you land the fish.  As the line goes out and the drag comes in, there should be almost no noticeable transition.  

Changes in friction applied during a fight will likely cost you the fish so make sure you are the one controlling this and not a faulty or low budget drag system.   The drag must be heat-resistant throughout the fight and characteristics of the drag should not change with a bit of extra heat or pressure.

Now then, just to have a little bit of fun, just a few comments about disc drags.  If you do a bit of research, you are going to hear about all kinds of materials for the plates and all manners of configurations.  We have even read a bit about a new (you guessed it!) space aged material with the feel of cork that will last longer than cork.  What they don't say is how quickly the high tech surfaces do wear out and how much it will cost to repair.  And yes, there are even a few that are now bragging up some sort of calliper breaking system similar to a sports car.  So I guess if you wanted to go all out, your fly reel would be suitable for use on the space shuttle and have the corner braking of a Ferrari.  We will stop there and let you finish the joke.  Just remember that good old cork produces a beautifully smooth drag and after a few years of good hard use, can be replaced without replacing other worn parts and at a low price.  But I suppose if you would prefer to take the Challenger in for an annual brake job that is your call and your money?

So that is about it.  Now then, whether or not the drag is made from something from space or just good old cork or a click and pawl is up to you.  We hope this basic understanding helps you make up your mind.    

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